The New Greengrocer Cookbook
- dispmulafortebe
- Aug 18, 2023
- 5 min read
A permanent fixture on our Los Angeles itinerary is Cookbook, a greengrocery from Marta Teegan and Robert Stelzner in Echo Park. Recently, the two opened a second Highland Park location, in a renovated historic storefront. We asked Marta, a trained chef, master gardener, and author, for her advice on storing and organizing produce, dried goods, meat, and (apropos of the holiday season) leftovers. Here are her tips.
The store will be called Cookbook and Teegen will operate it with partner and greengrocer veteran Robert Stelzner. The pair live together in the neighborhood. Their choice of space is prime for this type of endeavor as the shop is located along the stretch of Echo Park Avenue that is home to Chango coffeehouse and a magnet for an attractive bevy of broke artists, musicians and writers who can nonetheless afford iPhones and share an unflagging devotion to Vita Coco.
The New Greengrocer Cookbook
Cookbook will curate and sell a variety of fresh, seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs along with fresh-cut flowers and straightforward kitchen stock like organic milk, butter, eggs and bread. In addition, Teegen plans to stock some simple prepared foods and a variety of cookbooks as well as host classes, tastings and readings year round.
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There's no doubt that when you shop locally there's a feel good factor that you're supporting a small business and your commmunity. And there's a special relationship we Aussies have with our greengrocer. They've watched your kids grow, slipped a few new-season fruits into their hands, and maybe chatted to you about what you're cooking up with the produce.
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The Greengrocer's Diet is a seasonal-based weight loss plan that was given its name because most of the produce eaten on the diet can be bought from a good greengrocer store. Fresh produce makes up the bulk of what you eat and while you'll also eat some dairy, whole grains, meat, fish and chicken, the emphasis is placed on the fresh produce because you can eat much more of it.Compared to other food, vegetables and fruit are the lowest kilojoule, highest nutrient options around, which means you can eat lots of them and not get fat. Not only will you be able to eat more than you are accustomed to on a weight loss diet, you'll also start to feel exceedingly well. It's one of the main reasons why everyone who trialled the diet loved it so much and were happy to stick to it; they love the food and it makes them feel good. If you have a lot of weight to lose then you must be prepared to lose it over a number of months - maybe even a few seasons. With The Greengrocer's Diet you can do that and not get bored: as the seasons change, so do the meals. In summer when it's hot you'll eat more fresh salads, while in winter when it's cold you'll eat more nourishing hot soups and casseroles. It's how we're meant to eat. It's what nature intended.
quince pate de fruit Originally uploaded by michelle1975. Pretty much everyone has their weakness when it comes to fruits and vegetables. You can spot these weaknesses at the grocery store. Just keep your eyes open for someone filling their shopping cart with unseemly amounts of, say, mandarin oranges, or burying the check-out counter under absurd amounts of mirabelle plums. I happen to have several of these weaknesses: peas, pomegranates, sour cherries, blood oranges, and quinces. Luckily their seasons are spread out, so I almost always have something to obsess over. At the moment, I've been stalking the greengrocers in search of perfectly ripe quinces, preferably cheap ones.For something that is both inedible in its raw form and extremely hardy, quinces are generally hugely overpriced. Perhaps it is because of their relative semi-obscurity that grocers are able to sell them as something exotic. $3.00 a piece is far too much for a fruit that would, and should, grow in any Quebec garden. I am willing to pay for fragile fruits shipped for miles and miles from the tropics, but not quinces. Quinces are a magical fruit, and their scent alone is worth any price, but I was pretty happy last Saturday when I found a place selling them for $1.00 each. I bought 20.At Christmastime, I place a few quinces around the house and wait for their amazing scent to reach every corner, one that is nicely offset with the scent that comes from oranges studded with cloves. But you shouldn't leave it at that. You have to cook quinces to discover their full potential. Recently, I've been busy putting away several jars of quince-hazelnut preserve and spiced quince butter. I can think of no better holiday condiment. Ooh, the butter spread on pannetone. A must.Last year I made the quince paste from Chez Panisse's fruit cookbook. It was a big hit with guests. We served it as a sweet after dinner, but it is equally excellent with cheese, or champagne--or both. I made another batch this year, with even better results. Don't be afraid of overcooking the fruit, that's essentially what you want. This will keep for a year in an airtight container.Quince Paste3 lbs. quinces, peeled, cored, and diced *3 cups water2 cups sugar, plus more for dustingjuice of one lemonBring quinces to a boil in the water until they are very soft. Pass through a mill or sieve.Add sugar to puree and simmer on medium heat, stirring constantly. I recommend using a bigger pot than you need to prevent getting a thousand tiny burns on your hands. The mixture will thicken and bubble a lot. Be careful. Cook until it can be mounded up in a pile, about 45 min. Add lemon juice and pour onto an oiled piece of parchment paper in a tray. Smooth out to 1/4" thick. Let cool. Reverse it onto a new piece of parchment paper and let dry overnight. Cut into squares and toss in sugar. Store in an airtight container.Note: My paste was still a little sticky after one night. I cut it into squares, tossed it in sugar and let it dry overnight again. Now they are perfect.* If you are super industrious, you will save the peels and cores and make quince jelly. I have yet to be so industrious.m 2ff7e9595c
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